dijous, 23 d’abril de 2009

QUAN EL SOL MARXI L'AIGUA DEIXERÀ DE SER ESMERALDA?

  

23 d'abril, Sant Jordi; un dia díficil d'oblidar del calendari, fins i tot pels que com jo pateixen amnèsia permanent d'algunes dates... difícil d'oblidar perquè és el dia en què afloren no només roses, sinó llibres; però sobretot perquè Sant Jordi és la diada de Catalunya. Per això, he volgut regalar-vos el meu particular llibre, la meva particular rosa. Aquest text el vaig publicar als inicis del blog; però avui he cregut que era el dia perfecte per recuperar-l'ho en versió reduïda. La raó: parla d'un lloc on tot català hauria d'anar una vegada a la vida... allà on l'aigua hipnotitza pel seu color i la població t'acull amb el braços oberts per venir de terres catalanes.  

 


El 28 de abrile dia de sa limba, cadaú siguerà benvengut.

Mentre alguns col·lectius maleeixen el fenomen inevitable de la globalització, veient-lo com un monstre enviat per acabar amb la cultura pròpia que té com a fita convertir el món en un extra radi d’Estats Units, els algueresos donen les gràcies a Ryanair, una de les multinacionals més representatives d’aquest gegant colonitzador. Es senten agraïts amb aquesta companyia aèria low cost, barata en llenguatge comú i no m’equivocaria si afirmés que l’obertura d’una línia Girona-Alguer, Alguer-Girona el febrer del 2004 marcarà un abans i un després per la barcellonetta de Sardenya, o el que és el mateix l’Alguer. Sí, són paraules agosarades però no per això menys certes. De fet n’hi ha de més exagerats. Un exemple: el cantautor Claudio Sanna que s’ha atrevit a parlar de “Santa Ryanair”, a mode de broma, és clar.

La paraula globalització no sempre té el significat real quan la pronunciem, sovint sense la consciència suficient de què significa i com transcendeix en la pèrdua de la identitat i de la llengua. Els nadals ja no tenen Tió, sinó Santa Claus i les coses no són divertides, sinó cool. Si hi ha una dada que caracteritza aquesta realitat és l’increment en la obesitat infantil gràcies a multinacionals com MacDonal’s, la prova més evident que no tot allò que té a veure amb la cultura americana és envejable, perdó cool. Diuen, però que sempre hi ha una excepció que confirma la regla, i crec que l’he trobada. Fins que Ryanair no va establir un aeroport a l’Alguer, l’ús de l’alguerès, un dialecte del català, estava condemnat a ser parlat en la intimitat o en grups reduïts de persones, majoritàriament adultes.

El 28 de abrile dia de sa limba, cadaú siguerà benvengut. O el que és el mateix: el 28 d’abril dia de la llengua, tothom i serà benvingut. Una altre raó per visitar l’Alguer. (La primera no era altra que viatjar una de les poques illes on sembla que han entès que paisatge idíl·lic i civilització no és igual a massificació hotelera. A simple vista sembla perfecte, però vist des d’uns ulls curiosos encara ho és més). El 28 d’abril pels algueresos és una data com qualsevol altre. Ells tampoc no necessiten tenir un dia al calendari per recordar qui són. No obstant, els algueresos són bons amants de la història, construeixen un discurs pur i racional, sense estar esquitxats de la ràbia pròpia que embruta qualsevol lluita, ja que per sort ells són algueresos, italians a efectes legals, però els de la Catalunya més gran també som polacos i això dota de certa ràbia el discurs dels que provenim de l’altre banda del Mediterrani.

Tenia el bitllet d’avió des de feia mesos, tants dies esperant...i menys d’una hora! No m’agraden les comparacions, però aquest cas es mereix una excepció: Taradell- Barcelona amb cotxe: 45 minuts. Taradell- Platja d’Aro amb cotxe: 1hora 30 minuts. Girona- l’Alguer amb avió de baix cost...50 minuts! Sense ànim de plagiar campanyes publicitàries....menys d’una hora no té preu!  Tot i que 50 minuts no donen per molt són prou útils per rellegir la història de l’illa i fer retocs d’última hora en l’organització dels dies de viatge. Havia evadit les nombroses recomanacions i tard o d’hora m’havia de passar. Alguns diuen que Wikipedia no és la Bíblia (és a dir: no et creguis tot el que s’hi publica!), i d’altres (com jo) decidim consultar-hi a falta de temps per comprar guies de viatges. De tornada a Girona vaig decidir donar la raó als detractors d’aquest altre símbol de globalització, tot i que matisaria: Wikipedia és com la Bíblia (en totes dues publicacions la informació és qüestionable). 

Lluny de la fascinació pròpia de descobrir que Girona es troba a menys d’una hora d’una de les illes més bucòliques del Mediterrani, provava d’evadir-me estudiant la història de la Barcellonetta en un intent de desconnectar dels peculiars veïns de vol. 

-       Papa que ja volem?

-       No fill en aquest moment l’avió es dirigeix a la pista d’enlairament. Fill estigués atent a la noia de blau. El que explica és important.

Alguer o Alguero es una ciudad situada en la provincia de Sassari en el noroeste de la isla de Cerdeña (Italia). Cuenta con unos 42.289 habitantes. El casco antiguo es de una gran belleza, y muestra muchos rasgos comunes a las ciudades medievales de la Corona de Aragón. Las murallas y torres son muy características de la ciudad.”

-       Papa que ja volem?

-       No fill, ara es prepara. Mira’t aquest full, és molt important perquè complementa amb dibuixos el que ha explicat la noia de blau.

Pobre nen... “La mayoría de los habitantes de la zona hablaban alguerés, una variedad dialectal del catalán con influencias del sardo y el italiano, ya que colonos de Barcelona repoblaron la ciudad después de expulsar a la población sarda autóctona en 1372. El catalán fue reemplazado por el castellano como lengua oficial durante el siglo XVII, y, en el siglo XVIII, por el italiano. En 1990 un 60% de la población local aún entendía el alguerés hablado pero, pocas familias lo han transmitido a los hijos. La mayoría de los alguereses de más de 30 años lo saben hablar. La lengua vernácula es el italiano. El catalán es la primera lengua para el 22,4% de la población pero es menos de un 15% quien la tiene como lengua habitual. La tercera, el sardo, tiene un uso más bajo”.

-       Papa, què vol dir “salvavidas acuático”?

-       No fill, aquesta vinyeta no cal que la miris, no serveix, és per si l’avió cau al mar.

-       És clar papa perquè els avions floten.

-       No fill, els avions no floten.

 

Merda! S’ha acabat l’explicació de Wikipedia (encara que era poc fiable en aquell moment era de gran ajuda). Plan B: organitzar les visites.

 

-       dijous 1 de maig: arribada a l’Alguer i visita de la ciutat.

-       divendres 2 de maig: mati, visita a Cagliari. Tarda, visita de la Tintoreria Catalana.

-       dissabte 3 de maig: mati, Costa Esmeralda. Tarda, entrevista amb Carles Sechi (ex-alcalde de l’Alguer i director de l’Obra Cultural de l’Alguer).

-       diumenge 4 de maig: Gruta de Neptuno i acomiadament de l’Alguer.

 

L’Alguer, on el sol s’acomoda i el català es parla amb accent macarroni

Com fer entrar els primers raigs de sol primaverals de Sardenya en una frase? No són com qualsevol raig lluminós per bonic que sigui... El blau del cel i la tonalitat esmeralda del mar que rodeja l’illa millor conservada d’Itàlia, ajuden a què la lluentor del sol sigui especial, indescriptible i extremadament dolça. És d’aquells colors que no tenen nom, que es veuen un cop a la vida. Sembla que en aquesta illa el sol hagi trobat el seu racó predilecte. No sé si algun dia Paul Gauguin va visitar l’Alguer, segur que no, del contrari el seu llegat artístic hagués estat un altre. Sóc conscient que aquest primer contacte amb l’Alguer em va tornar dèbil, és impossible ser del tot objectiu quan t’has enamorat, quan saps d’anticipada que no podràs recordar el paisatge tal com era perquè sempre et faltarà un element indispensable que no et podrà donar la memòria, perquè hi ha records que necessiten dels sentits, de la presència.

L’Alguer, a diferència del que suposa la no sempre perfecte Wikipedia, és més que un record nostàlgic de l’expansió catalana pel Mediterrani. Havíem arribat disposats a descobrir-ho acompanyats d’una de les millors guies, una amant de la llengua i la cultura catalana. Poc temps, molt paisatge, poc temps, moltes visites, poc temps.

 

-       Què us semblaria un viatge a l’Alguer? – va proposar caracteritzada de l’empenta que ningú percep fins que la coneix.

-       Quan?

-       Jo pels vols de la festa del treball no he d’anar amb en Cuní.- encara que rondi els setanta anys continua tenint l’agenda tant apretada com quan cantava al famós Molino.

-       No tens cap acte, recital, o programa de ràdio on participar...?

-       En principi no. Si no hi heu estat mai us agradarà.


Des d’aquell moment la Feliu, com els de la seva quinta l’anomenen, ens va fer de guia i de contacte per la ciutat catalana d’Itàlia. Carregada a petició dels nostres amfitrions d’algunes còpies del seu últim llibre i de deu o quinze dels seus recopilatoris musicals, la que és encara una activista de la cultura catalana ens guiava pel centre de l’Alguer. Els carrers empedrats i estrets del centre històric semblen retornar-nos al casc antic de Girona, o de Vic, encara que amb un matís clarament italià, tot i que després de molt analitzar els carrers, encara no sabria dir exactament per què. Suposo que és tracta d’un element imperceptible als sentits més superficials. Els aparadors minimalistes de moda purament italiana, combinen a la perfecció amb les botigues que exposen massives quantitats de collarets de corall; un dels únics regusts amargs que m’emporto de la ciutat. Tot i que, Sardenya està considerada l’illa italiana que més cura té del seu ecosistema, la gran oferta de corall evidencia que ara per ara, els projectes han estat centrats en què els macro hotels i el turisme que visita Lloret no s’apoderi de l’illa. Un mèrit, tot sigui dit.  

Itàlia, Sardenya, l’Alguer. Sí, a afectes geogràfics estem a Itàlia, però contràriament al què sembla, en aquesta petita ciutat que guarda les cultures que l’ha construïda com si d’un tresor es tractés, es sent català. Bé un dialecte del català, amb matisos macarronis, però català! Les paraules s’allarguen i es tornen eternes, enllaçant-se unes amb altres, iguals que els raigs daurats. Interminables, dolces.

 

La Tintoreria Catalana: el símbol de la resistència

A la dreta una església de dimensions monumentals entaforada dins una petita plaça, una prova evident que no tothom segueix la màxima menys és més. Sembla ser que algú s’ha adonat de l’evidència i ha decidit deixar que la grisor s’apoderi de les columnes exteriors, ja no hi res a fer. A l’esquerra una raquítica tintoreria. Tot i que el cartell de “Tintoreria Catalana” comença a adquirir la mateixa tonalitat de l’església, els adhesius de la porta són clars, i no només en el missatge. Aquí es parla català,  10 anys de TV3, Televisió en català ja! Tot i portar anys units a aquella porta els adhesius semblen recentment enganxats. L’interior no sembla dotat de molta activitat tèxtil. Anys enrera les grans rentadores haurien envoltat el local de soroll, la planxa hagués dotat l’atmosfera d’una ambient calorós, però humit i l’olor característica de la roba neta hagués acabat de dibuixar la tintoreria. 

-       Ja sóc gran. Vull retirar-me, alhora em fa pena. Aquir hi ve lo gent a parlare, fa anys que aqueixas tardas som los mateixos, fins que se li és fet nit, i ara també molts de nous,  catalans, com vosaltros. Portem anys entestats amb les mateixes coses, i algunes les conseguim; com tenire un aeroport a l’Alguer abans que a Sassari!

Era massa increïble per ser veritat, però no es tractava de cap fanfarronejada, era cert. La implantació d’un vol Alguer- Girona, Girona- Alguer es deu a l’empenta constant d’un home: Pascualin, o El Tintorer, com tothom l’anomena. Durant anys va empaitar el president de la companyia aèria de baix cost convençut que la comunicació entre les dues ciutats era el que necessitava l’Alguer per mantenir viu l’esperit que començava a decaure. Finalment, ho va aconseguir. Contràriament al què la Ryanair havia planejat, es va construir la línia molt abans que la de Sassari, una ciutat de majors dimensions. Amb 79 anys ha aconseguit el que molts es proposaven, el que equival a un vell somni: “facilitar el contacte amb els germans catalans”.

-       Quin era el recorregut que s’havia de seguir fins aleshores per arribar a l’Alguer des de Catalunya?

-       Oh! Alhora minyona! Era difícil. Barcelona, Roma. He de Roma a Sassari.

Té 79 anys, però és d’aquelles persones que l’esperit l’hi ha mantingut jove les faccions. Dibuixa un somriure especial, no un rialla, sinó un somriure. Un element original d’ell que el fa proper, amable i constant, tant amable i constant com m’havia dit la Núria que era. Té una mirada que amaga molts anys d’experiència, però que manté aquell punt de brillantor que només posseeixen les persones plenes de vida. Tenen vida, molta vida, però alhora són pacients, aquell tipus de paciència que només s’adquireix amb els anys. Vestit amb pantalons de pinces i una camisa antiga, però ben conservada i sense cap mena d’arruga a la vista Pascualin parla amb calma. Encara que no sigui així, sembla tenir la resposta a tot, i el més important està disposat a compartir-la.

Érem somiadors, espectadors irònics que s’havien adonat des del primer moment en què havien posat el nas en aquell local, que aquella tintoreria sense activitat tèxtil era un dels elements més vius de l’illa i Pascualin, tot un símbol de resistència, il·lusió i fe. Igual que un rellotge entestat a funcionar al revés,  la Tintoreria Catalana desafia els dies. Les rentadores no volten, però el debat no calla, la planxa ja no treu vapor, però per la porta no deixen d’entrar-hi catalans atrets pels adhesius i l’evidència de l’olor de roba acabada de rentar ja no és tant forta, només en queda impregnada una lleugera olor en les cadires folrades, just per recordar al visitant quina era l’activitat inicial del local.

Tot i que no acostumo a visitar esglésies, cal fer una excepció quan l’ocasió ho mereix, o en aquest cas quan creus que ho deus. Després del tot el temps que hem robat a Pasculin, una tarda sencera acompanyada de cafè i cafè entre debat i debat, no em puc negar a la única petició del famós tintorer: assistir a la missa en català que “amb una mica de fortuna” si m’afanyo a creuar al carrer encara no haurà finalitzat. Vàrem tenir sort, la missa de 8 ja estava acabant i ens vàrem limitar a passejar-nos per la nau central, màxim símbol d’una de les contradiccions més perpetuades per la història. La corona d’espines m’havia recordat el que poca estona abans Pasculin recordava amb resignació: com un polític republicà havia arribat a l’Alguer per allunyar-se durant uns dies de la polèmica que l’assetjava. Aquest havia decidit visitar a l’illa i després de passar diverses tardes a la Tintoreria Catalana va tornar a Catalunya deixant les promeses en terra ferma.

 

“I de la història?...En podem parlar tant llargament, tant com llargs són els ponts”. Obra Cultural de l’Alguer

“Tenim la convicció de fer poc, però si uns mirem enrera és molt” afirmava Carles Sechi, director de l’Obra Cultural de l’Alguer i ex- alcalde de la ciutat. Sechi té una encaixada de mans convincent, segura i forta, però amable a la vegada. Només mirar-lo m’adono que, igual que totes les persones que he trobat fins ara, posseeix una barreja de calma, hospitalitat i humanisme. Tal com es diu “sempre hi ha bons i dolents a tot arreu”, però jo els segons encara no els he trobat. Pocs segons després de tocar el timbre, el director del local ens obre i molt educadament ens saluda, tot i que es mor de ganes de parlar amb N. Feliu. Un cop fetes les presentacions aquest serà el següent pas. 

El local de l’Obra Cultural, on també té localització l’Òmniu Cultural es troba en un dels carrers estrets i adoquinats típics de la part més antiga de la Barcellonetta.  Les sales de les quals disposa no gaudeixen de llum natural i és evident que van ser construïdes amb una funció diferent a la que compleixen actualment. De tota manera, els espais estan ben aprofitats fins l’últim racó. Un llarg vestuari convertit en biblioteca és la primera parada de la visita. Entre les joies literàries d’aquesta biblioteca s’hi troba el diccionari de l’Alguer, escrit per Mossèn Sanna. I ara també, el llibre de La Sardana de Núria Feliu, un regal que Sechi va rebre amb gran entusiasme, més que per l’autora, pel fet que una altra catalana s’hagués recordat d’ells. Mentre, jo inspecciono sense saber què busco, però esperant fer una troballa especial. Llibres d’història, novel·les, llibres de cuina, de música...i L’Alguer, una revista composta per un disseny antic, però amb un contingut actual, tot i que sembli arcaic en quant a vocabulari ja que l’alguerès encara conserva mots del català medieval. L’Alguer és la troballa que esperava des que m’havia evadit entre els llibres de la biblioteca.

-       Si vols te’l pots quedar-, m’informa Carles. Sembla que tothom s’ha adonat de la meva il·lusió. Sóc com una turista contenta d’haver trobat el souvenir ideal, una de les úniques proves actuals que contradiuen els que creuen que l’alguerès no només es parla, sinó que també s’utilitza en publicacions periòdiques.

Després d’acceptar que era hora de passar a una altre sala, Carles ens dirigeix a l’estança principal per presentar-nos als altres col·laboradors del l’Obra Cultural. En aquest moment me n’adono: no només és qüestió de recopilar llibres en català i de fer debat polític. L’habitació està vestida de tot allò que indica una activitat constant: munts de papers, ordinadors, publicacions, llibres, pòsters sobre campanyes catalanistes... i no només això. L’ambient està carregat, però no negativament carregat; sinó que l’atmosfera pesada que es respira denota moltes hores de treball. Hi ha quatre persones més a la sala, tres dones i un home. Tot i que físicament aparenten l’edat real (la majoria volten als 40 i 50 anys), la vitalitat que desprenen és arrasadora.

-       Finalment hem aconseguit el domini punt cat- apunta Maria, una de les col·laboradores.

-       Sí, però ens va costar moltes hores d’insistència i tràmits. Ha valgut la pena, a veure si tenim la mateixa sort amb TV3.- Respon l’home del costat de Maria.

Efectivament, la pàgina web de l’Obra Cultural de l’Alguer ha aconseguit el domini punt cat.  El següent objectiu és aconseguir que TV3 es pugui veure a tot Catalunya, una fita força difícil tenint en compte el cas Valencià. Tot i que Sechi i els seus amics es mostren prudents davant aquest objectiu no perden l’esperança. Si Ryanair aterra a l’Alguer, perquè no aconseguir que es vegi TV3?  Hi ha preguntes que val més deixar a l’aire, i persones a qui val més no subestimar.

Diuen que “mica en mica s’omple la pica”. Dubto que Carles Sechi conegui aquesta dita, però el significat el té perfectament adaptat. Es proposa objectius a curt termini, objectius que sap que es poden complir. Les seves accions són meditades, pensades, i les possibilitats calculades minuciosament. Es decideix i actua; sempre des de la racionalitat. Si Pasculin i la seva tintoreria són el cor de l’Alguer, Carles Sechi és el cervell. Són dos parts d’un tot, dos homes que a la seva manera i, evidentment acompanyats d’un seguici de persones amb tanta empenta com ells estan aconseguint reviure tot allò que uneix Catalunya i l’Alguer. No només la llengua.

En una sala actualment habilitada per fer-hi conferències Carles Sechi afirma que el tema lingüístic és força àrid, i que per tant no ens podem centrar en recuperar l’alguerès i el sard, sinó que cal potenciar la recuperació de la cultura i tot el que aquesta comporta. Per això, ja fa temps que hi ha actius diversos projectes, a part del de recuperació literària. Sechi aborda els temes que ronden el cap del visitant curiós molt abans que aquest formuli la pregunta. La visió d’aquest home de paraula ferma, però pacient convida a la reflexió portant-te fins a la resposta d’una manera subtil. Per això, molt abans de tenir la certesa que “Mediterrart 2006, Diàlegs d’Art de la Mediterrània” era una campanya artística en favor de l’Alguer, d’alguna manera ja sabia que els nombrosos quadres i fotografies penjats a les parets de la sala eren producte d’una campanya per construir un moviment identitari més fort.

-       És tracta d’un projecte comú amb la Diputació de Barcelona perquè diversos artistes retratin l’Alguer segons la seva perspectiva. – va afirmar Carles quan es va adonar de la curiositat que em despertaven els quadres. 

Els projectes no només es mouen en la línia artística. Carles i els seus companys saben el que volen, però toquen de peus a terra i analitzen quin és el millor camí per aconseguir-ho. En aquest cas han trobat en l’esport una altra alternativa per reforçar la identitat dels algueresos i per què no, ensenyar que hi ha esports que poden consistir en alguna cosa més que perseguir una pilota, sigui del tipus que sigui. El Rugby ha estat l’esport escollit.

-       Gràcies a la comunicació que hem establert amb altres entitats culturals catalanes i esportives i les esponsoritzacions que hem aconseguit el nostre objectiu s’ha complert: resulta més barat anar a jugar a Catalunya que a Itàlia. 

No podem veure aquesta dada com una simple anècdota, com un accident. Es tracta d’una campanya minuciosament estudiada que lluny està de vetllar pel Rugby. Es tractava d’aconseguir que els joves de l’Alguer s’involucressin en el ressorgiment de la seva cultura, la qual pocs coneixien. Consistia en involucrar-los, fer-los partícips de l’actualitat a partir d’una activitat que ja coneguessin.  Aquesta fórmula per acostar al jovent a Catalunya ha resultat, sobretot perquè no és només un procés unilateral: els algueresos no són els únics que viatgen a Catalunya, sinó que els catalans també han trobat en l’esport una raó per visitar la ciutat sardo-catalana.   

 “Fa temps que no he veia tanta gent catalana de la meua edat a aqueixa ciutat!”, m’informava una noia de 25 anys després que jo li demanés, en català, on podia trobar l’Òmniu Cultural. Durant la nostra curta conversa, agradable per a mi, emocionant per ella, vaig poder comprovar el que fins aleshores havia pensat: els vols barats han acostat a la població jove a la Barcellonetta Finalment ella, em va contestar molt amable sense haver de pensar la resposta, ni tant sols tenia la percepció que traduís mentalment. “Tot recte i a la reta”. “Reta”, ja m’havia adonat d’aquest canvi de lletra abans, però l’havia atribuït a una incorrecció fonètica pròpia de la persona. M’equivocava.

 Fins aleshores el turisme que visitava la ciutat sardo- catalana era majoritàriament adult. Des del febrer del 2004, però els joves algueresos han tingut l’oportunitat d’adonar-se que el català no és només un idioma utilitzat per la gent adulta i gran, la qual cosa els ha impulsat a parar-lo i a participar de la cultura catalana de diferents formes. La més coneguda: l’equip de Rugby de l’Alguer. Aquesta és una teoria que temps després veuria reforçada gràcies a les declaracions del cantautor sardo-català Claudio Gabriel Sanna, el qual després d’elegants evasives per concretar una entrevista amb ell em va llençar a l’últim mètode que em quedava per escoltar les seves paraules: un dels altres gegants representatius de la globalització: YouTube.

 

 “Incerts camins de futur, la bona gent de l’Alguer, desig de compartir...”

Últim dia, ja no queden visites. Tot i que crec que si el dia transcórrer tal com tenim planejat haurem fet tot el que volíem, crec que encara hi ha racons de l’Alguer que no he descobert, i que quedaran pendents per una segona visita. Poc temps, molt paisatge, poc temps, moltes visites, poc temps, molt mar, poc temps, molt sol.  No hi ha res a fer, demà ja tornaré a estar a la comarca de la boira, on el paisatge, per bonic que sigui passa a un únic segon pla durant els dies de boira..com enyoraré els raigs que mai s’apaguen...

Abans, però ens quedava una cosa pendent: visitar la Cova de Neptuno. No em passa igual que en les esglésies, és diferent, però les grutes tampoc m’emocionen. Tot i així, un passeig amb barca per una de les millors costes del Mediterrani... qui s’atreviria a dir que no? M’he acostumat a l’amabilitat dels algueresos. Per això, quant un dels conductors de la barca ens dóna la benvinguda especialment perquè som els “germanos catalans”, no em sorprèn, tot i que m’alegra gratament.

És meravellós intentar desxifrar per què poden haver-hi tants matisos de blau en l’aigua del mar. A Colera és transparent, però fosca, a Formentera sembla un mirall fins al punt de plantejar-te que pateixes visions i la sensació d’humitat entre els dits dels peus no és més que això, una sensació i Sardenya obté un color esmeralda que mai abans havia vist. Les roques, la sorra, el sol... tot ajuda a què l’aigua canviï fins l’extrem de pensar que ha deixat de ser aigua. De tota manera, hi ha algun element que se’ns escapa i jo, tampoc vaig tenir temps de descobrir-lo durant els 20 minuts de trajecte. Rere meu una remor secundària em cridava, així que davant el meu fracàs en intentar desxifrar els enigmes del blau esmeralda vaig decidir participar de la conversa.

Les grutes són...com són les grutes? Fredes, de colors clars, relliscoses, amb estalactictites i estalacmites, suposo. Ho suposo perquè tot i que estem a l’Alguer no hi ha n’hi un guia que parli català, i ara per ara, encara no domino prou bé el vocabulari sobre pedres en anglès. És parla alguerès a tota la ciutat, però aquí només fan l’explicació en italià i anglès? Quan s’acabava la visita una de les vigilants va escoltar la nostra incertesa al respecte; així que va decidir acostar-se per demanar-nos si érem de Catalunya.

- Sí som catalanes. Que parla alguerès vostè?

- Sí, però no tenc la ocasió de parlar-lo. Si desitgen puc explicar-los la visita en català. Per vostès. – minuts després m’adonaria que les grutes tenen el seu encant, si més no les que es troben banyades per aigües esmeralda.

La nostra guia, particular gairebé, és una prova més que la barreja de calma, hospitalitat, cultura i humanisme són ingredients essencials per realitzar una obra serena, reflexiva, plaent. Però igual que passa amb els primers raigs de sol primaverals de l’illa esmeralda és difícil de descriure, ja que sempre quedarà una percepció impossible de retenir en la memòria. Tot i que el mar és distancia i unió a la vegada, l’home s’entesta a construir vies de comunicació, ja sigui la cultura, la llengua, una modesta barqueta o una línia de baix cost de Ryanair. Sigui forçat o natural de vies de comunicació mai en faltaran. Per això, la sort de l’alguerès depèn de la voluntat dels seus parlants, perquè cap llengua natural s’esborra per si mateixa. Tal com va dir Sechi “els algueresos hem viscut la nostre identitat com a motiu d’orgull”. De tota manera, no n’hi pot haver prou amb això, els catalans de l’altre banda del Meditarrani, de la Catalunya més gran hem de poder-hi contribuir d’alguna manera, però com fer-ho directament? Carles Sechi es va afanyar a respondre: “Els catalans hem de fer com els nostres veïns. Ells van un cop a la vida a la Meca. Vosaltres veniu al menys un cop a la vida a l’Alguer, emporteu-vos un bon record i difoneu-lo”.

Després de l’última passejada per l’Alguer i d’una breu migdiada al sol vaig acabar l’equipatge, i em vaig acomiadar dels membres de l’hotel que havia conegut. Fora d’aquest, vora el cotxe, ens esperava en Pasculin. Ell és el cor de l’Alguer i va voler acompanyar-nos fins l’aeroport. Mentre travessàvem la carretera exterior de la Barcellonetta i passàvem vora el port vaig veure les embarcacions que ja descansaven, inactives i cansades de fer camí fins la Grota di Neptuno hora rere hora. Mentre, però a la bella muralla començava l’hora més activa de la jornada. Havia arribat el moment de sortir a passejar tranquil·lament, bé no per tothom. Dins de tota atmosfera hi ha uns elements que no descansen mai. Potser algun dia es tornaran freds i acabaran sent només una ombra del que ara representen. Ara per ara però, els raigs del sol continuen daurant el cel igual que al matí i no sembla que tinguin intenció de donar pas a la foscor.  Decideixo no acomiadar-me del la puresa de l’atmosfera, no m’agraden els comiats. A més, se que tornaré, encara tinc alguns dubtes pendents. Quan el sol marxi l’aigua deixarà de ser esmeralda?

 

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